June 20^th. The Last Day.

Things did not go exactly as hoped at St. Shotts. Although the harbour is well protected by breakwaters it is still subject to surging waves. The boat was tossed about between stretching the mooring lines to their limit and banging against the dock. Wayne and Cyril went up several times to shift the boat or adjust the lines (and insisting that I stay put). In the end we had to accept that if we stayed we would not get the sleep we’d hoped for and might end up with damage to Galefilero. At 3:00 a.m. we cast off and started our day’s run. Our plan for the day had been to start around 8:00 a.m., round Cape Race and head for Fermuse. The route was about 40 NM and we expected to arrive at about 6:00 p.m. but as we’d started early we would arrive earlier. It was foggy when we got started so we ran with both the chartplotter and radar.  I was afraid it would remain foggy and we would not get to see the famous Cape Race Lighthouse but as the dawn came the fog burned off. By the time we arrived at the Cape it was almost fully clear and a beautiful day lay ahead. 

Cape Race in the early morning.

We had little or no wind ever since the evening we left North Sydney and while it meant running the engine full time it also made for an unusually smooth crossing. No complaints from me on that account.

A pod of dolphins played alongside on the way.

We arrived at the dock in Fermuse a little after Noon. There were dozens of fishing boats tied up and  space was limited. It was tight quarters so Cyril took the helm and steered us to a perfect landing at a floating dock . He called his wife Madeline to come and get us and I went up to the Harbour Authority to register the boat for a few days. While we waited I cooked us a lunch of Chicken Scaloppini Savoyard (with turkey breast as we did not have chicken) and then we packed our gear and cleared up the boat. Madeline arrived at 3:30 And drove us home.

Cyril, Don and Wayne as we prepare to leave Galefilero in Fermuse.

It was great having Wayne and Cyril on board for the trip across to Newfoundland. The experience was shorter and less varied than the time spent with Gary from Hingham to North Sydney but these guys are great sailors and I benefitted from their experience. In addition they were great travelling companions. If I have been blessed in anything on this trip it is with the exceptional people from the TNYC who volunteered to come and help me “Bring Galefilero Home”.

At this point we can consider Galefilero safely delivered to Newfoundland and the basic story sort of ends. If you’re interested, stay tuned. I’ll add entries for the final runs to St. John’s and to Holyrood. After I’ve had a couple of weeks to digest the experience I’ll also write an overall assessment of the trip from New England to Newfoundland in a small sailboat.

June 17, New Crew and the Great Leap!

By now, gentle reader, you may be biting your nails and wondering if we were lost at sea. Never fear, it’s just that we were, by necessity, away from internet coverage and the means of sending updates. Those who had access to Wayne’s “spot” track site already know the basics. Here’s the detail:

With Gary gone back on the ferry I spent the 16^th clearing up the boat, checking engine fluid levels and re-stowing gear. I even got the dinghy over side and cleaned up the nasty sooty marks on the transom so her name once again stood out proudly. I also ran into town to replenish groceries, pick up an extra fuel tank and get all filled with diesel fuel. With everything pretty much in hand, I settled in for the evening and watched a movie on my laptop.

The morning of the 17^th dawned sunny and clear. I called a cab grabbed a coffee and muffin at Tim’s and ran up to the Marine Atlantic terminal to meet Cyril and Wayne. They arrived bearing much extra safety equipment and a lovely “care package” from Faye (I’m a lucky guy). We immediately ran back to the boat where the boys got settled in, stowed their gear and sized up Galefilero.

Having followed the blog Wayne and Cyril had 

one item to look over before getting started.

They had been keeping a running check on the weather. The prediction was for three good days (meaning not too much wind and not from an unfavourable direction) so they were up for getting under way A.S.A.P.. We did, however wait until Noon (when the liquor store opened) to pick up a few last minute items and grab lunch on shore. Mike at NYC was a great host while we were in North Sydney. He froze the meats and milk for our trip and lent us his truck to get our “groceries”. He even put a couple of containers of his homemade soup in the package.

At 1:30 p.m. we cast off from the dock and headed out of North Sydney Harbour. It took us between two and three hours to motor out to our turning point. Before we got outside cell phone coverage I made one last call to Faye to wish her a Happy Birthday. 

Farewell to Nova Scotia.

I think it was around 4:00 p.m. when we set a waypoint for the south coast of St. Pierre, set the sails and shut down the engine. T first the wind was in our face but soon came around to a little forward of a broad reach. Wind speed varied from 15–20 knots. I was a little concerned at first but as all was comfortable I soon settled down. As evening came on and night fell the wind dropped off. We kept the sails up but started the motor. Cyril had brought some bottled moose from home and made a delicious dinner of moose with Chinese vegetables. Fter dinner we cleared away and started an informal watch system.

From that point on there is not much to tell. All Sunday night  Monday and Monday evening we just tooled along. Winds were very light and although we used the sails they didn’t do much. The engine ran full time. There was nothing but sea and sky with seabirds, the occasional whale or a pod of dolphins. The nights were brutally cold. I wore five or six layers of clothing and wished I had my parka. Getting sleep in short shifts you end the night feeling pretty tired but you recharge your batteries napping during the day.

We made our first landfall off St. Pierre at 3:00 a.m. Tuesday. We had gone 165 NM from North Sydney in 32.5 hours. The original plan had been to make a stopover at St. Pierre but we did not want to enter the harbour in the dark then wait several hours to clear customs so we decided to press on. I set a waypoint for Cape St. Mary’s, 90 NM ahead and we continued on to Newfoundland.

Aside:

When Faye and I planned this venture we intended to bring Galefilero back to Argentia and to spend July cruising Placentia Bay. But by now I’ve been on this boat for four solid weeks and I think this long offshore stretch brought me to my limit. I miss Faye, family, Mojo and home generally.

We discussed the possibility of bringing Galefilero to Riverhead in St. Mary’s Bay. From there Faye and I could either go back to Placentia Bay or on around to Conception Bay. But by now I am balancing a desire to get closer to home with a need to get off the boat for a spell. In the end we decided to make for St. Shotts a small cove at the mouth of St. Mary’s Bay. Here we could land and spend a night tied up at the and all have a full night’s sleep before carrying on. 

Approaching St. Shotts, St. Mary's Bay, Newfoundland

We made our official Newfoundland landfall at St. Shotts at 9:00 p.m. on Tuesday. A group of people came to greet us. Cyril fished from here when he was younger and he met some old friends and relatives. One person brought us some lovely crab claws and shelled crab meat. I made Barbecue pork chops, rice and corn on the cob. After a late dinner we got to bed. We’d been at sea for 56 hours and covered some 280 NM. The diesel tank is under half full but I still have one full 5 gallon fuel can.

June 14, 15

Up and at em! Today we finish phase 2 of the trip home with Galefilero. Phase 1 took us from Hingham MA to our re-entry to Canada at Yarmouth.

Phase 2 covers Yarmouth to North Sydney (the length of Nova Scotia) and takes us to the jump off point for our run across the Gulf of St. Lawrence to Newfoundland.

Gary and I got up this morning with plans to get a coffee and visit a couple of the shops before we head out from Baddeck. When we stepped ashore there were two pressure tanks waiting for me at the dock courtesy of a man named Wilson; one of the many great people we’ve met on the way. I was telling Wilson that I had bought a pressurized stove but that I didn’t think the tank came with it. He told me that he had two that he had taken off boats that were switching to propane and that I was welcome to them. He refused to accept any sort of payment. I had to fight with him even to get him to accept a gift card from the local coffee shop.

Before 10 a.m. we had done our chores and cast off from Baddeck. A fog had settled in so we took our time heading out with both GPS and radar showing us the way. Before we made our turn to head out the long passage to the sea (actually Bras d’Or lakes IS the sea but let’s think of them like lakes) the fog had burned off. Winds were light so we just motored up the channel which ran 20 NM from end to end. Our timing was calculated to coincide with the ebb tide, putting the current in our favor. Along the way we passed under a long span of transmission lines and then under the Seal Island Bridge. I think most Newfoundlanders have crossed this bridge at one time or another but passing under it by boat is a whole other experience.

 The Seal Island Bridge on Cape Breton Island

 Passing under the bridge.

I think we photographed (and posted) every bridge we encountered.

By the time we got to the bridge te current had become more noticeable. Marker buoys were leaving a wake and our speed got up to 8 knots. It was the Schooner Passage all over again. As soon aws we cleared the channel and made our turn for North Sydney we came into fields of lobster trap floats. Gary estimated their numbers in the tens of thousands. Remember , around here the floats have up to 50 ft. of line floating on the surface so they are a menace to navigation. We worked out that they all drifted the same way so we could come fairly close on the port side but had to give them two boat lengths clearance on the starboard side. With Gary at the wheel picking his way among the floats and me standing at the mast keeping a sharp eye out for stray lines we got through but a couple of times we had to throw the engine into neutral to ensure we didn’t get snagged.

Northern Yacht Club, North Sydney

Late in the afternoon we motored up into North Sydney, past the Marine Atlantic Terminal and on to the Northern Yacht Club. This marina is in the process of upgrading. The new floating docks are nice. Water has only just been installed and the only power is a single 15 amp outlet but the people at the club went out of their way to get us settled and set up. This club has a very informal atmosphere and an active bar. When the bartender referred to “mainlanders” I pointed out that they are mainlanders. I had to back paddle quickly to avoid being cut off or punched out. We had a quiet evening. Gary got his kit together for the trip back on the ferry and I turned in early.

I woke early to find Gary was already up and out. I made a breakfast of bacon, eggs and toutens for his last day. When he got back it turned out he’d walked over a couple of kms. into town. Later we both strolled in and had lunch a a restaurant that served a decent chowder then visited Canadian Tire and Home Hardware. When we got back to the boat we called a cab and ran Gary up to the ferry terminal.

 Gary takes the big boat!

Gary was a great companion and guide on the first two legs of the trip. I’ve learned a lot from him along the way and I very grateful to have had him along. 

Now that Gary is on his way home I just have to wait for Wayne and Cyril to arrive on the 17^th (tomorrow) for the third leg to begin. I plan to use the interim time to clear up a bit and look after a few minor details that need to be taken care of. 

June 13

In spite of the fact that we had lost a lot of sleep we stayed up until almost midnight and had some beer and then some rum while I got the blog entries together. The WiFi signal was low at the boat so I had to bring my computer up to the office and sit on a park bench to post the entries. After that we got to bed knowing we could sleep in.

It was a good and comfortable night and we slept for over eight hours. We got up and breakfasted then cast off to head through the narrows and into the upper lake. The first order of business was to pass through the two bridges. There is a railroad bridge with a rotating section and a vehicle bridge with a section that lifts. There was some delay while the railroad bridge got ready and we motored in circles while we waited. 

Soon we were through and as there was little or no wind we motored on up the lake. After a while the wind picked up a little so we shut the engine down and beat to windward for a while, just for the fun of sailing. Soon though we pointed for Baddeck and started in. When the wind died out again we got the sails down and began motoring. 

Pulling into the channel behind Kidston Island we came to the Baddeck Marine Marina. We were directed to tie up at the fuel dock as many of the floating docks were not yet in place. I was supposed to circle around and come alongside, pointing outward. I’m still not used to handling this boat in confined spaces but mustering all my abilities I was able to stall the engine and crash headlong into the dock. Damage was minimal (considering) but Gary was unimpressed and (I think) a little embarrassed. Nonetheless, we got tied up, signed in and set off to explore Baddeck. It is a beautiful community. At its heart is the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site. We explored the exhibits then walked around town. There were a lot of gift boutiques. Later we wandered around some of the boats at the marinas.

This is Gary’s second-last night with me before heading back so, not knowing what North Sydney will have to offer, we went out to dinner at a nice seafood restaurant that was recommended. Afterwards we came back to Galefilero for coffee, cookies and fudge. In case I didn’t mention it before, Cape Breton is home to the most addictive oatcakes on the face of the earth.

Anyway, so to bed. Tomorrow we head on for North Sydney.

Gary

With very little time in the Bras d’Or Lakes to explore, it was good to least have time for a leisurely sail, and we covered a distance equivalent to the run from Holyrood to Brigus.

I have visited Baddeck a number of times over the years when my children were young.  I have a photo of Sara as a little girl trying to fly her hand-made kite on the lawn of Alexander Graham Bell Museum.  Today I took a picture of the same area to see if she can remember it.

Baddeck is great to wander around, visiting little shops and marine stores.  Again, there isn’t the time to do it justice… I guess that means I’ll just have to come again.

June 12

Now is the winter of our discontent made glorious summer by getting back on schedule and seeing the sun.

Gary woke me at 8 am. The Parks Canada people had begun their day and we were about to go through the lock.  They were exceptional and got us through the lock quickly and past a revolving bridge.

Entering St. Peter's Lock.

 We motored on up the canal and stopped at the St. Peter’s Marina. It is in a beautiful spot. We tied up and replenished our fuel. Then I went up the road to get groceries (and found a Horton’s). We both got showers and were fit to face the day. The day rewarded us with sun, beautiful surroundings and a light breeze. After completing our run up the channel to the lower (and smaller) of the Bras d’Or Lakes we shut down the engine, set sail and had a leisurely sail up to the Barra Stait. Here we stopped at the Barra Strait Marina in Grand Narrows.

Barra Strait Marina, Day's end!

 It is a little down at the heel and looks as though it is being newly started after being abandoned. Having said that, the location is prime, the staff is very friendly and helpful. The docks need work but the washrooms, showers and laundry are clean and good. We settled in and made dinner. Tomorrow looks to be leisurely so as soon as I post this it’s off to bed to make up for a lot of lost sleep. I’ll sleep well knowing we’re back on schedule and (barring unforeseen eventualities) we’ll be in North Sydney by the evening of the 14^th.

Gary

With but a little time spent in the Bras d’Or Lakes, it is clear to me that a couple of weeks would be great to cruise the different parts.  As it is we will just be able to sail through and take in some of the sights.  Tomorrow we will have some time to just putter around before heading into Baddeck for the night.

June 11^th

There was very little wind today but it was right on the nose so we left the sails down and motored. We began at first light and were underway by 5:30. The short steep waves of yesterday were gone to be replaced by longer, deeper ocean swells. Some of the biggest were 12 to 15 feet high but they are generally far apart and rise and fall gently so they are actually comfortable. We made pretty good time and later the wind shifted so we added a reefed main and jib. This added a little speed. We just sat around the cockpit and left Otto to tend helm. 

Otto at the helm.

There was nothing to report with the exception of one other sailboat doing the same thing we were. It flew the flag of Sweden and the skipper sailed off and on the land so we crossed paths a couple of times during the day. At dusk we were almost at the juncture of the Nova Scotia Mainland and Cape Breton Island. The sky was clear, the wind was light and sea conditions had not changed so we decided, once again, to sail on through the night. Our Swiss friend turned in to Tor Bay (yes NS has one too) at dusk but we made the turn at the cape and headed for St. Peter’s. The sky was clear and stars were coming out when I took the first shift off at 10 pm. I came on deck at midnight to find a thick cloud cover and although the swells had subsided the boat rolled uncomfortably. Worst of all the chip of all Canadian maps for the GPS had a gap in the information for this area. Nevertheless Gary had plotted our course, had the radar running and we each stood two hour shifts. Sleeping is not easy on these night passages for two. Two hours is not a lot of time to sleep and in addition you are constantly cold and damp. We could have arrived at St. Peter’s earlier but reduced speed to lengthen the trip so that it would be light when we got inshore so we could see the lobster floats.

Approaching St. Peter's

We arrived at St. Peter’s at 5:30 after 24 hours on the water. The engine had run without pause and without incident. A group of anglers had braved the early morning damps and were catching mackerel at the entrance to the canal as we motored in and tied on. By 6 am I had collapsed in the cabin and Gary had gone for a walk. I don’t know where he found the energy.

Gary

Another overnight!!  This time we were traveling almost blind for a while.  We didn’t have a paper chart for the area around Isle Madame and the traffic zone into Canso, and, as Don mentioned, the electronic chart seemed deficient.  I have little experience with the Radar, but having played with it a few times over the past couple of weeks, I could get it to show me what I couldn’t see in the black night… fortunately, there was very little to see.

St. Peter’s, when we arrived at 5:30, seemed to be already well into its day.  People fishing, people walking dogs, Tim Horton’s had people who seemed to be just passing time with one another, and with little else to do… they really are operating in a different time zone.

It’s an interesting little community. The locking, although only a two foot lift, was fun, and the St. Peter’s Lions Club Marina is one of the best I have been in.

June 10

The best laid plans…

Monday began foggy with no wind (which we expected) but we began our journey for Liscombe under steam. We motored on but by the afternoon the winds picked up and the waves began to build. By around 3:00 p.m we had experienced overheating problems and were beating about under full sail among shoals, rocks and lobster pots. 

Taylor's Goose. A good reason to keep your eyes on the chart or GPS

We saw lots of floats in Maine but if you steered around them there was no issue. Here the floats may have up to 50 feet of floating line attached so even if you steer clear of the float you can still catch the line in your prop. Finally, since I began to whine, we motored in towards Ship Harbour found a little cove not too far in and dropped anchor. The only other residents were a bunch of seals that were none too glad to see us. They vacated their rock in the middle of the cove and swam around giving us dirty looks for a while before relocating to the far side of the cove.

Things were beginning to look problematic. We’d lost time in Maine and although we had made some of it up between Yarmouth and Halifax we had not made half the distance planned for today. Also we were having engine trouble again. It took a while for frustrations to subside but the forecast looked like no wind for the 11^th so we did not give up hope. We made dinner and took a look at the engine. Gary took the cover off the water pump. The impeller was fine. Then he pulled the hose from the water intake valve. It was blocked again. Some prodding with a coat hanger cleared it and when we tried it we got the best flow of exhaust water we’d ever seen.

 We’d begun to feel better until the pressure pump cut in and wouldn’t stop. There was no water at the taps. We dug under the vee berth for the pressure pump and were debating the possibility of kinked lines being the issue when the bilge pump kicked in. Checking the bilge showed water trickling down from the area of the engine. There was water coming from under the engine but the engine did not seem to be the source. Finally we emptied one of the quarter berths and opened a hatch to check the water heater. One of the hoses was spewing water at the connection to the heater. It took a couple of tries but, finally, using two clamps and using boiling water to soften the hose first, Gary got it to stop leaking. We put the boat back together but went to bed hoping that the anchor would hold and that tomorrow would be better.

We are running out of time and no matter what happens Gary has to be on the ferry to Newfoundland on the 15^th.

Gary

One of the reasons I love sailboats is that I hate engine problems.  When you have poor winds to sail, and you have engine problems, optimism takes a blow.  At home in the bay, you know you can always make it somewhere.  When you are off a coast that is foreign to you, things look pretty bleak.  We were fortunate in that the engine problem was easily corrected and seems to have finally been eradicated.

The seals were a bonus… I would guess 50 or more came sliding off the rock as we entered the cove that was to be our home for the night.