June 14, 15

Up and at em! Today we finish phase 2 of the trip home with Galefilero. Phase 1 took us from Hingham MA to our re-entry to Canada at Yarmouth.

Phase 2 covers Yarmouth to North Sydney (the length of Nova Scotia) and takes us to the jump off point for our run across the Gulf of St. Lawrence to Newfoundland.

Gary and I got up this morning with plans to get a coffee and visit a couple of the shops before we head out from Baddeck. When we stepped ashore there were two pressure tanks waiting for me at the dock courtesy of a man named Wilson; one of the many great people we’ve met on the way. I was telling Wilson that I had bought a pressurized stove but that I didn’t think the tank came with it. He told me that he had two that he had taken off boats that were switching to propane and that I was welcome to them. He refused to accept any sort of payment. I had to fight with him even to get him to accept a gift card from the local coffee shop.

Before 10 a.m. we had done our chores and cast off from Baddeck. A fog had settled in so we took our time heading out with both GPS and radar showing us the way. Before we made our turn to head out the long passage to the sea (actually Bras d’Or lakes IS the sea but let’s think of them like lakes) the fog had burned off. Winds were light so we just motored up the channel which ran 20 NM from end to end. Our timing was calculated to coincide with the ebb tide, putting the current in our favor. Along the way we passed under a long span of transmission lines and then under the Seal Island Bridge. I think most Newfoundlanders have crossed this bridge at one time or another but passing under it by boat is a whole other experience.

 The Seal Island Bridge on Cape Breton Island

 Passing under the bridge.

I think we photographed (and posted) every bridge we encountered.

By the time we got to the bridge te current had become more noticeable. Marker buoys were leaving a wake and our speed got up to 8 knots. It was the Schooner Passage all over again. As soon aws we cleared the channel and made our turn for North Sydney we came into fields of lobster trap floats. Gary estimated their numbers in the tens of thousands. Remember , around here the floats have up to 50 ft. of line floating on the surface so they are a menace to navigation. We worked out that they all drifted the same way so we could come fairly close on the port side but had to give them two boat lengths clearance on the starboard side. With Gary at the wheel picking his way among the floats and me standing at the mast keeping a sharp eye out for stray lines we got through but a couple of times we had to throw the engine into neutral to ensure we didn’t get snagged.

Northern Yacht Club, North Sydney

Late in the afternoon we motored up into North Sydney, past the Marine Atlantic Terminal and on to the Northern Yacht Club. This marina is in the process of upgrading. The new floating docks are nice. Water has only just been installed and the only power is a single 15 amp outlet but the people at the club went out of their way to get us settled and set up. This club has a very informal atmosphere and an active bar. When the bartender referred to “mainlanders” I pointed out that they are mainlanders. I had to back paddle quickly to avoid being cut off or punched out. We had a quiet evening. Gary got his kit together for the trip back on the ferry and I turned in early.

I woke early to find Gary was already up and out. I made a breakfast of bacon, eggs and toutens for his last day. When he got back it turned out he’d walked over a couple of kms. into town. Later we both strolled in and had lunch a a restaurant that served a decent chowder then visited Canadian Tire and Home Hardware. When we got back to the boat we called a cab and ran Gary up to the ferry terminal.

 Gary takes the big boat!

Gary was a great companion and guide on the first two legs of the trip. I’ve learned a lot from him along the way and I very grateful to have had him along. 

Now that Gary is on his way home I just have to wait for Wayne and Cyril to arrive on the 17^th (tomorrow) for the third leg to begin. I plan to use the interim time to clear up a bit and look after a few minor details that need to be taken care of.